Dogfunk Guide to Denim
Shopping online for denim (we’re talking about jeans here, people—let’s keep it below the waist) can be frustrating…like lacking taste buds and winning a tour to a certain Irish brewery—everything looks nice, but you can’t really sample the goods. We feel your pain, so we created a denim guide to brief you on the taste of our pour. Read on for detailed info about the cuts, sizes, and fits of your favorite brands. Good luck unraveling the denim conundrum—we’re going to go grab a freshy.
Dames
Denim shopping is even harder than swimsuit shopping. With swimsuits, S/M/L seems to fit the bill for sizing, but jean sizing is one huge cluster[rhymes with “pluck”]. A size 6 may suit you fine in Element jeans, while fitting one thigh into a Volcom size 6 requires a week-long liquid diet. Not that Volcom doesn’t make a snazzy jean—it truly does. You just need to know how different brands and styles fit so you can spend less time internet-ing and more time feelin’ groovy in your new threads.
Fit
| Fit | Definition | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Skinny | A skinny jean is fitted all the way down the leg, tapering to stay fitted at the ankles as well. |  |
| Straight | Like skinny jeans, straight ones are fitted from the hips through the upper leg. From there, they go straight down with no tapering on the lower leg. |  |
| Boot Cut/Flare | These flatter most body types. A boot-cut/flared jean is fitted from the hips to the knee, and flares out at the lower leg. Most boot-cut styles flare out just a little, while a full-on flared jean widens more significantly. |  |
| Wide-Leg | A wide-leg jean is fitted in the hip and butt, then goes straight down with no tapering at all. Sometimes it flares out a bit on the way down to the bottom of the hem. |  |
Women's Rise
The distance from crotch to waist on a pair of pants is known as the rise. A low-rise measurement is about seven inches, but some get as low as three or four inches (make sure your undies are tucked in before you head out on the town). Most of the pants we carry are low-rise (or what yo mama calls “hip-huggers” because they sit at or below the hips). We prefer to call them bootylicious, ’cause, hell—you go to the gym for a reason. Or, at least, you consider going to the gym for a reason. Nobody wants muffin tops, so be sure to size these babies right, and they’ll be more than kind to your figure—in fact, they’ll really inspire you to strut your shizzle.
Materials
What makes premium denim so damn expensive, and why do some jeans fit like a glove in the morning but like a loose sock at night? Answer: material. Plain old cotton isn’t very flexible or curve-hugging, so most manufacturers throw a little spandex into the mix for some give and take. After a day or two, though, that spandex can loosen up. With a more premium jean you’re not just paying for an edgy label—you also get shape-holding denim with stretchy spandex in just the right parts of the thighs, bum, and hips. This adds flex where you really need it without making the whole jean baggy after several hours of wear.
Leg Opening
A jean’s leg opening is the quickest clue as to how it’s going to fit. Check out how much of a difference an inch or two makes—with 24 inches you’re rockin’ out Janis Joplin-style with some serious flare, while 20 inches makes for a nice boot cut with enough flare to balance out your booty. Or maybe your flavor is a super-fitted 10 inches, which shows off those ankles or slips into some sexy boots.
Flare
Boot Cut
Super Fitted
Brands
Unfortunately, fit varies greatly from brand-to-brand and jean-to-jean. During this shoot, some models couldn’t squeeze into one Roxy jean to save their lives, while another style in the exact same brand and size fit just fine. So we grabbed a smattering of different jean styles from a few of our most popular brands, and slapped them onto a few different body types to give y’all some helpful perspective. If you’re thinking about getting a Volcom skinny jean, now you’ll know to order a size up. With Nikita, you’ll know it’s key to consult the waist-size chart before sending your credit card digits into the cyber-ether. When the mailman swings by with a package of fresh Dogfunk denim goodness, you should be able to slip ‘em right on, yank off the tags, and bask in the smell of vintage-washed denim.
The Models:
Model 1:- Height: 5ft 2in
- Self-Described Body Shape: "I'm pretty short with a smaller waist and a little bit wider hips."
- Most Common Problems When Shopping for Jeans: "Too long. No one seems to make jeans for short people."
- Favorite Pair of Jeans: "Banana Republic jeans (sad, I know), size 0."
- Usually Wears Size: "I usually wear a size 2, but sometimes a 0 depending on brand. For the other sizing, I probably wear like a 27 or 28?"
- Today She's Wearing: Size 1 for Volcom, Roxy, and Element; Size 27 for Nikita
- Height: 5ft 6in
- Self-Described Body Shape: "I have longer legs and a straighter figure."
- Most Common Problems When Shopping for Jeans: "Often not quite long enough, and they have built-in curves I can’t fill up. I hate a baggy booty. Ew."
- Favorite Pair of Jeans: "Converse One-Star Straight Jean, size 2."
- Usually Wears Size: "I'm usually a 2 or 4. For the euro sizing, I'm probably a 27"
- Today She's Wearing: Size 3 for Volcom, Roxy, and Element; Size 27 for Nikita
- Height: 5ft 4in
- Self-Described Body Shape: "I’m medium height, really athletic build."
- Most Common Problems When Shopping for Jeans: "Length is often okay but anything that fits my thighs and bum is too loose on the waist."
- Favorite Pair of Jeans: "Generally Levi’s because they tend to fit my legs as well as my waist."
- Usually Wears Size: "Usually I’m a size 8/9, with a 29-inch waist."
- Today She's Wearing: Size 9 for Volcom, Roxy, and Element; Size 30 for Nikita
Skinny Fit
| Jean | Model 1 | Model 2 | Model 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
Straight Fit
| Jean | Model 1 | Model 2 | Model 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Boot Cut/Flare
| Jean | Model 1 | Model 2 | Model 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Wide Leg Fit
| Jean | Model 1 | Model 2 | Model 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
Dudes
Denim: the working man’s leather, the cowboy’s security blanket, the dude trouser—not to be confused with Jorts. Unless you live in a plastic bubble and watch reruns all day, you probably own a pair of jeans. And if you’re like us, finding new jeans to replace your worn-out favorites seems like a Herculean task. Well pardner, here at Dogfunk, we’ve decided to lay down the truth and show you what to expect while buying denim. How do different brands size their jeans? Why is one brand’s cut longer, baggier, or just plain weirder than the same cut in another brand? Keep reading, and unravel the mystery of denim.
Fit
| Fit | Definition | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Skinny | Fitted through the seat and thigh, and narrow all the way down the lower leg. “Wow, total drainpipe.” |  |
| Straight | Fitted through the seat and thigh, and straight from the knee down. Think business casual. “Grandma won’t cry if I wear these to dinner.” |  |
| Standard | An easy or relaxed fit through the seat and thigh, narrows below the knee to sit well on your kicks. “A little loose, but not quite baller-status.” |  |
| Loose Fit | Looser through the seat and thigh, has a straight leg. A baggy fit that gives you plenty of room and lots of shoe coverage. “More G than Mr. T” |  |
Rise
Yes, we do rise… we rise to the occasion (sometimes with the assistance of a little blue pill), and we occasionally even rise out of bed. The brands we carry at Dogfunk generally have a low rise, which can sit casually on your hips, give you a relaxed pre-sag, or, in the case of a skinny fit, hug your hips tighter than a pair of Chinese finger cuffs.
Materials
What makes premium so damn expensive? That’s a good question. Most companies make their denim pants in the same cheap-as-chips sweatshops overseas, so why should you shell out your lift-ticket cheddar? The key to premium brands: For one, they stick their names on your ass, upping your street-cred and satisfying the fashion-maven you pretend not to be. But, more importantly, they only use the finest cotton denim (and sometimes a little spandex or polyester). Need a lightweight, breathable denim pant you can wear skating for hours? Try a jean that uses stretch cotton (i.e. spandex) or a little polyester for better wrinkle control and breathability. Or perhaps you’re headed to an environmentalist’s house-party with your vegan girlfriend. A lot of brands use organic cotton, so you can show skeptical tree-huggers that you don’t have to look like a douche to care about the planet.
Leg Openings
In most cases, you can gauge how a jean will fit based on its leg opening. Narrow or tapered 12 to 14 inch openings indicate a tight, rockstar fit. Straight and standard-fit jeans usually feature 15- to 17-inch leg openings, giving you plenty of room without making you look like a walking parachute. Some have a boot-cut, which flare subtly at the lower leg to sit well on your kicks. Baggy-fit jeans have leg openings of 17+ inches to cover the upper half of your shoe, conceal your chicken legs, and give you certified baller status.
Skinny
Standard
Baggy
Brands
In general, the lads had less trouble with the fits of different brands than our lovely ladies. But then again, men tend to be less picky (amen, brothers). We did, however find a couple of difficulties with two fits of Volcom jeans. Model 2, the tallest of our models, discovered that the Volcom Ergo Jeans seemed suitable for flood preparation. Model 3, our stockier model, almost had to break out the pliers to get the waist closed on the skinny-fit Volcom jeans. Yet both models had no problem getting comfortable in Volcom’s straight- and relaxed-fit jeans. Model 2 even proclaimed, “I could see myself hanging out and chatting up Victoria Jealouse in these pimpers.” (He has no chance.)
-
Pssst…here’s a bit of insider info:
Volcom jeans tend to be more fitted in the waist and thighs, creating a rock star, check-out-my-ass kinda look.
DC, on the other hand, has more of a baller cut. Its jeans tend to fit loosely at the waist and have larger leg openings than other brands.
Element seems to fall somewhere between Volcom and DC. Its jeans tend to feel true at the waist with straighter leg fits and standard leg openings.
RVCA fits narrower around the waist, and Model 3 recommended sizing up. RVCAs generally rock standard leg openings.
Model Specs:
Dude 1:- Height: 5ft 7in
- Body Shape: "I'm pretty slim and short."
- Favorite Pair of Jeans: "Matix Grippers, size 30."
- Usually Wears: Size 30 waist
- Today he's wearing: Size 30 Element, DC, Volcom, and RVCA jeans.
- Height: 6ft 3in
- Body Shape: “I’m tall, skinny, and ready for business time.”
- Favorite Pair of Jeans: “Second-hand pair of Gap relaxed-fit basic jeans, 33x34.”
- Usually Wears: Size 33 or 34 waist
- Today he's wearing: Size 34 Element, DC, Volcom, and RVCA jeans.
- Height: 6ft
- Body Shape: “I have an athletic build.”
- Favorite Pair of Jeans: “DC Loose Selvedge, size 34 x 32.”
- Usually Wears: Size 34 waist
- Today he's wearing: Size 34 Element, DC, Volcom, and RVCA jeans.
Slim Fit
| Jean | Dude 1 | Dude 2 | Dude 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
Regular Fit
| Jean | Dude 1 | Dude 2 | Dude 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
Baggy Fit
| Jean | Dude 1 | Dude 2 | Dude 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |